2006 Ford Mustang

2006 mustang for sale

A great and must read article: 2006 mustang for sale

Q: I want to purchase a 2006 mustang the end of the summer because I have some things I want to pay off.?
The dealer didn’t let us test drive the GT! Folks this is a $30,000 car! They wanted to talk numbers first, so I did and they didn’t go down any on their price. I feel like they wanted me to trust them but they didn’t want to trust me. I want to buy late summer because I have some things I want to pay off 1st. Then the manager wanted to add the balance of my loans on to the price of the car! Folks, I have two degrees and two professional licenses, and good credit. Does this guy think I am an idiot? Further I told them what I do for a living. I look 19 but I am 31 and even though I gave up a lot about me and they treated me this way, like I am 18! This is my second time talking to the sales man, this time my wife came with me. Is that a buying signal for you? I am thinking more about buying that GTI from that nice professional saleman at volks wagen. My question is, Is this a policy for dealers not to let you test drive a car if you ask? W/are other 2006 mustang owners xperiences?

A: a- why would you buy a car that has low reeliability and terrible gas mileage?

b- Are you serious?? They wouldnt let you take it for a spin and you stood there and talked to them? They are either trying to insult you or they are not in the mood to sell…

Q: Oil filter for mustang?
I have a 2006 mustang v6, I just got a couple of fram code: PH2 oil filters on sale, Someone told me as long as the code starts with PH2 im fine.

Just want to make sure this oil filter will work?
Last one i had was “ph2 17-1738″ (motor master)

A: Motorcraft oil filter for that car is FL-820S. You can get them at Walmart or any auto parts store.

Fram filter is a PH2, so that Motomaster will work. Motomaster’s are made by Fram’s parent company, Allied Signal.

For about the same price, I recommend sticking with the Motorcraft, better quality product for your Ford.

Q: BUYING A NEW CAR, But hate Dealerships—MSRP are always high, plus the salesman always trys to jack it up?
Say, I want a 2006 Mustang GT that has a MSRP of $27,890. There’s a sale tag hanging from the window for $24,998. Say i’m actually willing to pay the sale price, but I know once you sit down that there’s a good chance the sale price was incentive loaded and for first time car buyers or someone in the military etc… How do I go about getting the ‘exact price’ the dealership claims from the sale stickers in the window. No sales tax,license,shipping,detail fees— exactly at $24,998 the dealership claims?

Is it even possible?

A: Lots of factors here, the dealership, the car, how hot it is, and your powers of persuasion.

What you really want is a final number, not just the selling price, but how much is that car going to cost you after taxes, mv fees, tire tax, and whatever else they want to charge you.

If you’re willing to buy the car for $24,998, I would say tack on tax to it (6% where I live, at least at the moment until that jackass govenor raises it to 7%)…that’s $26,498.

That’s the price you want to get to, but if tell them that off the bat they’ll start negotiating with you, so you need to start lower and aim for $26,498.

Tell them you will buy the car, all taxes, fees and whatever else all included for $25,000 and then bargain from there knowing you’re not going any higher than $26,500 total.

If you get that far, then you need to figure out how to finance the car…from them if they have a low interest rate, but if not then you need to find a bank offering good rates on car loans.

There is a website that finds and negoiates cars for people for a one low price…I think there normal charge is 1% of MSRP. Pretty good to save time, hassle and $$$.

www.leasecarsforless.com is the name.

Q: car sales gone wrong!!?
almost 2 weeks ago i trade my mazda rx8 for a 2006 mustang gt, they gave me 10000$ for the rx8 and i owned 14000$ on it so i have 8000$ downpayment. 4000$ so i can payoff the rx8 and 4000$ for the mustang gt. they told me my credit was accepted and the car was mine and i even sign the papers with 8% and 309$ a month, but now they call me saying that i have to get a new bank becouse the guy from finalcial didnt ask me how many hours i work. i work 30 hours a week and i get 14,50$ per hour. they sold my rx8 the 3rd day they got it and we alredy tried with 2 banks and they have denied the car loand. all the time i ask what the worth thing can happen they dont answer. so here is my question what can i do if i dont get a car loan? and even if i get it i sign for 8% and 309$ a month payment… should i contact a lawyer if they ask me for the mustang back?

A: Hello Gaz
So here is what really happened. You were “spotted”, that means they delivered you the car before the loan was totally accepted. Their fault, your fault, it doesn’t matter. Your loan wasn’t approved. Your credit was not accepted your credit application was accepted. There is difference and you most likely signed a bailment agreement that covers the dealerships legal situation. You give a dealership $8000 down and they are putting in a car and try to get you approved later. They have failed at that. They must give you your car and your $8000 back. They say they sold your car. You can not sell a car without a title to it. They did not pay your loan off so they must get the car back.They can because they probably wholesaled it to a used car dealership to get more cash flow. They have to do these things, all of it. You must give them there car back, but you must demand your car back or pay your loan on it off. Most likely this won’t happen. But demand your $8000 back and do not accept less. Good Luck BS .

Q: Why is it somehow “wrong” to make a car salesman play by your rules when making a purchase?
My boyfriend of 6 months went with me to look at a 2006 Ford Mustang at a dealership today. He says it was “wrong” for me to make the salesman treat me a certain way and play by my rules.

Here’s a little background on me; I’m a 38 year old woman and have been an ASE certified auto mechanic for 18 years. I’m part owner of the shop my dad founded in 1980 and I serve as the general manager in charge of 10 mostly male employees so I’m used to getting respect. Although, if you ask any of my guys, I’m not an evil slave driver, I’m really cool about a lot of stuff. They just know they better show the utmost respect to customers and don’t do anything dishonest. Whenever I go to buy anything big I like to keep the upper hand with the salesperson, unless its a private party sale where there’s never any need to anyway. This is also the first time I’ve ever really dealt with a car dealer on a sales basis before; I usually drive whatever the shop is selling for unpaid mechanic’s liens (I’m a single mom of 4; 1 in college, 1 in the Air Force and 2 at home and I don’t make THAT much) but I just paid off my house (after 15 years) and I want something nice for once. I’ve saved for years for a newer car.

Well, when we went into the dealership the salesman I talked to immediately tried to steer me towards buying a new Focus, a car I wouldn’t buy if my life depended on it. I told him that I was only interested in the Mustang and unless he had an older Camaro or Firebird in good shape (for possible restoration) on his back lot, I wasn’t interested in anything else. He then proceeded to call me “Missy” which I HATE being called. I may be female and reasonably attractive but “Missy” sounds like something you would call a little girl. My name is Sandra Elizabeth and the guys who work for me address me as various forms of those names (I’m not picky, one tech jokingly calls me Lizzie Macguire because I look like an older Hilary Duff and it doesn’t bother me a bit) but would never, ever call me Missy and expect to keep their jobs. I told the salesman that if he wanted to earn a sale from a cash buyer he’d better address me as ma’am or by my name, take me to the car I wanted to see, not try to sell me anything else and keep his comments to himself while I inspected the vehicle unless I asked him a question. I even explained to him that I am a mechanic and I know exactly what I’m looking for (and probably a lot more about cars than he does) so his comments would be useless anyway. My rules with salesmen are basically show me respect, don’t lie to me and let whatever you’re selling sell itself. He wouldn’t keep his mouth shut and kept treating me like a kid so I walked off and directly into the manager’s office and explained to him that I didn’t like the way the salesman treated me and that if I didn’t get a full apology from him I was not going to purchase the car. The manager called the sales guy in and it sounded like he was getting a major talking to. The manager came out, apologized for the salesman and handled the details of the sale for me.

My boyfriend says that I was too rough on the guy and I should have just let him do what he was doing. I’ll admit that I am one tough cookie; who wouldn’t be after raising 4 kids on their own and managing a shop full of men? I just felt I deserved reasonable respect. When I sell lien cars I basically leave the potential buyer alone until they have a question; its less intimidating particularly for inexperienced buyers. I want them to feel comfortable with me because if they do, they might use my shop in the future.

A: I’m going to skip your ridiculously long explanation.

I saw a few key words, like that you’re a mom with a kid in the Air Force, and a few other things that don’t matter in the slightest to your question. Which tells me you want people to know a lot about you. Because you feel it’s relevant.

It’s not.

To answer the simple question of why it’s not fair to make them play by your rules: Because you’re being damned selfish and full of yourself, is why.

They’re not “sales people”. They’re human beings, just like you, trying to make a living. They have certain quotas to meet, and certain rules that have been instructed to them by their bosses.

More than likely, he is NOT going to get spoken to. Instead, he’s going to be told that you were just “one of those customers”, and to not worry about it.

So you’re a mechanic? So? What do you do when a customer comes into your shop, and tells you how to run things? And expects you to do things their way, instead of your way?

I’m going to guess you’d bitch about that too.

Q: 2 questions??????????????
2 questions. Should I sell it and should I buy it?
I found a 1986 MK3 Toyota Supra for sale. I was looking for a foxbody mustang, but i saw this jewel sitting in the back all forgoten and such. We looked at it and he told me that he wants $2000 for it. It is the 3.0 I6 with a 5 speed and has 114,000 miles on it. The body is a little rough. No dents, but lots of little scrapes and seems like little brushes of white paint is everywhere.

There is no rust except for some surface rust on the bottom in certain areas. The car is from Wyoming. The guy said the engine has a “knock”. I let it idle and drove it for a few miles and even redlined it, but I honestly couldnt find anything but a loose belt. So thats good. Everything is stock except for a fartcan on it. The dealer said the car belonged to an older guy so Im guessing the stock muffler had something wrong with it, and it would be alot cheaper to buy a fartcan than an OEM muffler.

The only thing i can find wrong with the car is that it defintely needs a new cable for the E-Brake and needs a new belt and of course a paint job. Is this a bad buy? I would be swaping in a 2jz ASAP. I want this car to be my project car here at Wyotech with I get to High performance class. I have about 6G to spend so I would have alot left over to mod this car with.

MY NEXT QUESTION IS…

I have a 2006 Cobalt LS/5 speed. I paid about $6,700 for it 4 months ago. I can get $5,000 trade in at the dealership or sell it for around $5,500. Should I sell it while i can still get a decent bit? It seems the price just keeps going down on these cars. The only mods are a CAI, Strut bar, 17 inch rims with new tires and a few interior mods.

So is the car a good deal and should I sell my car basically? Lol sorry for being so long.

A: Buy Supra only if you are mechanically inclined and can fix cars yourself. Parts alone would be expensive for this car and any labor cost would quickly drain your budget.

If you have $6000 and sell your Cobalt for $5000, you’ll have $11,000. Why not get something newer and more reliable and not worry about breaking down all the time. I’ve had plenty of old cars and there is a good reason why Supra would be selling for so cheap like $2000.

You just have to weigh all your options and decide if it is worth to invest money into this car.

Q: good deal???? ooga wooga booga?
2 questions. Should I sell it and should I buy it?
I found a 1986 MK3 Toyota Supra for sale. I was looking for a foxbody mustang, but i saw this jewel sitting in the back all forgoten and such. We looked at it and he told me that he wants $2000 for it. It is the 3.0 I6 with a 5 speed and has 114,000 miles on it. The body is a little rough. No dents, but lots of little scrapes and seems like little brushes of white paint is everywhere.

MY NEXT QUESTION IS…

So is the car a good deal and should I sell my car basically? Lol sorry for being so long.

A: i like the mk2 better nicer body bigger..and cheapper 2jz fits right in

now for the cobalt thats a girls car

resell value will go down really fast not a popular car..sell it and hook up the suppra

Q: looking for dj’s please help like cammy rankin boonie?
does anyone know about any more unsigned dj’s like cammy or simialr sort of music

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A: um try DJ Jammis , DJ Bounce DJ speggy, DJ Ingwell , all can be found on youtube and video net

Q: What would cause a burning clutch smell when there’s no apparent slippage?
I bought a used 2006 Acura RSX last weekend with 32,000 miles on it. When I got it home and I was putting some stuff in my car, I thought I caught a slight whiff of clutch smell. Since then, I have been catching the same whiffs occasionally.

Well last night when I was driving and shifting up through the gears I started smelling a horribly strong smell of clutch that lasted for about 5 seconds and then disappeared. I didn’t notice any slippage, and I wasn’t driving roughly or anything (I’ve driven a stick shift for almost 8 years). I figured it may have been the Mustang in front of me that had just taken off quickly. Then on my way home from work today I was cruising behind a line of cars and had been in 5th gear for a minute or so and started to accelerate a bit when I started smelling the horribly strong clutch odor again. Once again, I didn’t notice any slippage. I stopped to get gas shortly after that and caught a whiff of clutch as I got out of the car.

As I’ve said, I have not noticed it slipping. I am kinda still trying to get used to how to shift smoothly in the car as I’ve driven a 1993 Nissan pickup for the past 7 or 8 years, so it is possible that I’ve burning the clutch a bit the way I’m driving…but I just don’t think so. Plus that wouldn’t explain why it started smelling really bad when I was just cruising along and accelerating a bit in 5th gear not even touching the clutch pedal.

I’ve tried some of the suggestions for testing whether you have a bad clutch. I’ve put it in 5th gear and let off the clutch while at a dead stop a few times and it has stalled out immediately. I’ve gunned it in 5th gear while cruising along and have gotten no detectable slippage. I’ve even driven it at wide-open throttle a few times and gone up through the gears and not had any problem.

So what in the world would cause the smell of burning clutch? I’m supposed to take it back to the dealership this weekend to do the oil change, alignment, and safety inspection that they included in the sale price of the car…hopefully I can get them to check out the clutch and repair it if necessary without them trying to charge me for it considering I haven’t even had it for a week and I’ve been noticing it since I got it home the day I bought it.

A: brakes or a clutch in need of adjustment for some small amount of freeplay

Q: With all of these foreclosures? Are many of these from consumers just being careless.?
I would like to hear some examples!
I bought a town-home in 2004 for 175k and put down 15k down. Now I its worth 120k thanks to two home right next to me that are vacant due to foreclosure. The one neighbor bought his unit in 1999 when there were 2 year old he bought it for 80k. Well in 2006 he refinanced it for 180k where he got almost 100k in cash. So what did they do, go on lavish trips, go to races all over the place, bought a 30k fishing boat and a new mustang GT. He works as a auto mechanic his wife got laid off from her work, but the funny thing is she just sits around and smokes on her patio. 6 months ago he told me he is not paying his house payment anymore. Cant afford it anymore. So what did they do instead of paying there payment, buy cartons of cigs, cases of beer, went to Florida to deep see fish in June, went to Las vegas in July. We they are now renting a town home somewhere, they had to be out 2 weeks ago. Another she researched a program where the bank gave them 3k to leave! “cash for keys” Now his unit is up for sale for 120k. I have another neighbor that cashed out and went belly up. his unit is 110k.

On the flipside I do know folks that have lived frugally and lost there jobs/medical issues. Then foreclosed because they cannot afford there payments.

I would like to hear some commits on this?

A: Yes there are those that took advantage of the equity in their property. When the property values did not increase so they could again access the equity to pay off these debts they had to go belly up thus causing many foreclosures.

A few of these individuals are now blaming the real estate and mortgage professionals for their plight as is the current President. He says he want to have those that were taken advantage of by the system to now be able to refinance their houses at the current value and lower mortgage rates.

To me that is giving an ok for these people’s bad behavior.

Now some were actually take advantage of, but again these same people signed the loan docs. Before signing they should be aware of what they are signing for.

Sub prime loans have been around for ages with little or no problems for the consumers. All sub-prime loans have an adjustment period either 2, 3 or 5 years. This is normally explained to all borrowers prior to them signing the loan docs.

The mortgage banker or broker tell the borrower that once the property appreciate in value, if you make your payments on time, we or anyone can refinance you into a good rate.

What happen this time was the house or property did not increase in value. Since the properties did not increase in appreciation there was no equity. Since there was no equity lenders could not refinance these mortgage loans, thus the borrower was stuck with the consequences of not being able to refinance and had to make the new monthly payments or give the property up to the foreclosure process.

I hope this has been of some benefit to you, good luck.

“FIGHT ON”

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